iBook G4 14" 1.42 GHz Inverter/AirPort Cables Replacement

Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

Lift the battery out of the computer.

Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.

Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.

Push the wire clasp away from the AirPort card and toward the display, then rotate up to free it from the RAM shield.

Grasp the clear plastic tab on the AirPort card and pull toward the display.

Hold the AirPort card in one hand and use your other hand to remove the antenna cable.

Remove the four silver Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.

Grasp the metal bracket on top of the RAM shield and pull upward to remove the shield.

Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.

Use a pin (or anything you like) to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.

Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

Remove the three hex screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver (or Allen screws using an Allen key if these are used).

Remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.

Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.

There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.

Once the front and sides of the lower case are free, turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free (it may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down).

Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.

Remove the following 10 screws from the bottom shield:

Six 3 mm Phillips

Three 7.5 mm Phillips

One 14 mm Phillips

Lift the bottom shield off.

Remove the single Phillips screw securing the DC-In board.

Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board.

Deroute the cable from around the optical drive, removing tape as necessary, and angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.

Remove the following 11 screws from the bottom of the computer:

Three 3 mm Phillips around the battery compartment. (Some models may only have two screws.)

Three 4.5 mm Phillips along the optical drive bezel. (a magnetic screwdriver may help to lift these screws out)

One 11 mm Phillips in the lower right corner. (if present)

Four 14.5 mm Phillips.

Turn over the computer and open it.

Remove the 2 Phillips screws (3mm) from the edges of the keyboard area.

Remove the 4 mm Phillips screw from the lower left corner.

Lift the upper case and use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab. Due to model variatons your trackpad connector may be different than the one pictured.

Carefully lift the upper case about half of an inch and move it so that you can access the power and speaker cables.

Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connector from its socket. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

Carefully disconnect the multicolored speaker cable from the logic board. As before, make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

Remove the following 16 screws:

Thirteen 3 mm Phillips.

One 3 mm Phillips. (actual screw not present in image)

Two 4 mm Phillips.

Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner, which may catch on the metal framework.

If your iBook has Bluetooth, as discussed in the previous step, you will need to slide the antenna through the lower I-shaped hole in the shield before completely removing the shield.

Remove the two Phillips screws at the corners of the modem.

Lift the modem and modem shield from the bottom.

Disconnect the RJ-11 cable from the top of the modem.

Turn the computer over.

Disconnect the inverter cable from the logic board and deroute it from the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.

Turn the computer back over.

Disconnect the microphone cable at the front of the computer, between the left side of the hard drive and the metal framework.

Use the black plastic loop to disconnect the display data cable from the logic board.

Deroute the microphone and display data cables from the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.

Deroute the AirPort antenna cable from the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.

Support the display with one hand and remove the single Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two screws total).

Lift the display up and tilt it backwards, freeing it from the two metal alignment posts holding the hinges in place, and slide it away from you.

Use a 1.5 mm hex screwdriver to remove the two hex screws on either side of the display (four screws total).

Use your thumbs to slightly separate the rear bezel from the front bezel.

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the front and rear bezels.

Rotate your spudger until it is parallel to the front face of the display.

Run the spudger around the perimeter of the display to separate the rear bezel from its retaining clips.

Lift the rear bezel off the display.

Remove the pieces of readily removable tape from around the perimeter of the display.

Carefully remove the aluminum tape covering the display data cable connection.

Remove the single screw inserted through the piece of EMI tape near the bottom edge of the display.

Use the tip of a spudger to remove the small washer under the screw you just removed.

Peel the aluminum/EMI tape off the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.

Remove the two Phillips screws securing each side of the LCD to the clutch hinge frame (four screws total).

Lift the thin steel LCD cover off the LCD.

Remove the second of the two Phillips screws securing the clutch cover to the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.

Pull the clutch cover away from the front of the display.

Remove the pieces of tape covering the display data and microphone cables near the bottom edge of the display.

Disconnect the display data cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the LCD.

Remove the display data cable from the display.

Use the tip of a spudger to lift the microphone out of the front bezel.

De-route the microphone cable from around the top and side of the display.

Remove the display data cable from the display.