iPad 2 GSM Bluetooth/Wi-Fi Antenna Replacement

Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

Use a SIM eject tool or an uncoiled paperclip to eject the SIM card tray.

Pull the SIM tray out of its slot and remove it from the iPad 2.

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

Lay the iOpener flat on the right edge of the iPad, smoothing it out so that there is good contact between the surface of the iPad and the iOpener.

Let the bag sit on the iPad for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the front panel.

There is a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad, approximately 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top of the iPad. You are going to exploit this weakness.

Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.

Make sure you place the tool in the proper spot—between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.

Keeping the tip of the plastic opening tool wedged between the front glass and plastic bezel, slide a plastic opening pick in the gap, right next to the plastic opening tool.

Remove the plastic opening tool from the iPad, and push the opening pick further underneath the front glass to a depth of ~0.5 inches.

While you work on releasing the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, reheat the iOpener, and replace it on the bottom edge of the iPad.

While the bottom edge is being heated by the iOpener, begin releasing the adhesive from the right edge of the iPad.

Slide the opening pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

Before removing the first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, insert a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from re-adhering.

Re-heat the iOpener, and move it to the top edge of the iPad.

You will have to release the adhesive securing the antenna to the front panel without damaging the delicate parts attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow the next steps carefully.

Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.

Slide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna.

Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna (approximately 3" from the right edge, or right next to the home button) re-insert the opening pick to its full depth.

Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.

Continue releasing the adhesive along the bottom of the iPad, pulling the opening pick out far enough to go around the home button, and re-inserting it to a depth of 1/2 inch once the pick is past the home button.

Continue releasing the adhesive all the way along the bottom edge of the iPad.

Leave the opening pick wedged underneath the front glass near the home button.

Reheat the iOpener in the microwave and set it on the left edge of the iPad to start warming the adhesive in that section.

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.

The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.

Continue releasing the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and slide the opening pick around the top left corner.

Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is thin here due to the digitizer along the whole left side. Make sure the pick is not too deep (max 1/2 inch) to prevent damaging the digitizer.

Using the opening pick that is still underneath the bottom edge of the iPad, release the adhesive along the bottom left corner.

Using one of the opening picks, pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad and grab it with your fingers.

Holding the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, rotate the front glass away from the iPad.

Remove the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and rotate it out of the rear case.

Lay the LCD on the front panel as seen in the second picture.

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully flip up the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets.

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the digitizer cable off the shields on the logic board.

Carefully pull the digitizer cable off the adhesive securing it to the side of the rear case.

Pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its two sockets on the logic board.

Lift the LCD from its long edge farthest from the digitizer cable and gently flip it toward the rear case—like closing a book.

While holding the LCD up, gently slide the front panel away from the iPad. Be careful not to snag the digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD.

Set the LCD back into the body for safekeeping.

Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.

Set the LCD face down on a clean surface. You may want to rest it on a soft cloth to prevent scratches.

Carefully lay the LCD next to the rear panel.

Use a plastic opening tool to lift the display data cable lock upwards.

Pull the display data cable out of its socket.

Remove the LCD assembly from the rear panel assembly.

If present, use a plastic opening tool to help remove the piece of tape covering the end of the dock connector cable.

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the dock connector cable's connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Peel the dock connector ribbon cable off the rear panel.

Pry the speaker cable connector straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front camera cable ZIF socket.

Peel the headphone jack and front camera cable off the rear case.

Pull the headphone jack and front camera ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retainer securing the upper component board cable connector to its socket on the logic board.

Pull the connector away from its socket on the logic board.

Remove the three 2 mm Phillips screws securing the SIM card slot to the rear panel.

Remove the two 2.9 mm Phillips screws securing the headphone jack to the top edge of the rear panel.

Use a plastic opening tool to help pull the headphone jack out of its recess in the top of the rear panel.

Peel the headphone jack/SIM slot assembly away from the top edge of the communications board.

Remove the two 2.1 mm Phillips screws securing the logic board bracket to the rear case near the digitizer cable socket.

Remove the logic board bracket from the rear case.

Remove the four 2.6 mm Phillips screws securing the logic and communications boards to the rear panel.

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the logic board up from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

Lift the logic board out from the rear case and rotate it slightly toward the battery.

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect both antenna connectors from their sockets on the communications board.

Disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna connector from its socket on the logic board.

Remove the logic board from the iPad 2.

Move the dock connector/speaker cables out of the way and peel the bluetooth/wi-fi antenna cable off the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

Remove the following screws securing the bluetooth/wi-fi antenna to the rear panel:

Two 1.7 mm Phillips screws

Two 2 mm Phillips screws

Peel the bluetooth/wi-fi antenna off the speaker enclosure and remove it from the iPad 2.